Buying a sectional sofa is easier—and safer—when your measurements are solid. In this guide, you’ll learn how to measure your living room, plan the delivery path, and pick the right layout (L-shaped or U-shaped) with confidence.
In this guide:
Step 1 - Map Your Space (Floor, Walls, Obstacles)
Start with a quick sketch of your living room. Mark windows, radiators, vents, power outlets, door swings, and any fixed obstacles (pillars, fireplaces, low sills). If you have a rug or media console you’ll keep, include them too.
- Measure the usable wall lengths (in) where the sectional might sit.
- Note obstructions: baseboard heaters, floor registers, or wall sconces that could block the back or arms.
- Record ceiling height—handy for tall backs or delivered pieces being tilted in.
Step 2 - Take Key Room Measurements
Grab a tape measure and collect these room numbers (both cm and inches if possible):
- Room width × length (e.g., 161" × 205")
- Doorway clear width × height (inside frame to frame; note door swing and hinges)
- Hallway width and any turns (measure the narrowest points)
- Stair width, rise, landing lengths, and ceiling clearances if applicable
- Window height from floor if a chaise might overlap a sill
Pro tip: Photograph each narrow point while holding the tape in view. It helps during checkout and delivery scheduling.
Step 3 - Understand Sectional Dimensions & Orientation
Sectionals list several dimension types. Knowing each will help you match the piece to your space:
- Overall length(s): For an L-shaped, you’ll see two runs (e.g., 96" × 120"). For U-shaped, three runs.
- Depth (front to back): Typical 35–42", chaise often 60–72".
- Back height: Usually 30–40".
- Piece count: Some ship as multiple modular units (easier for tight entries).
- Orientation: Left-hand facing (LHF) vs Right-hand facing (RHF) is defined by looking at the sofa straight on. If the chaise/longer arm is on your left, it’s LHF; on your right, it’s RHF.
Still deciding between layouts? See our comparison guide: L-Shaped vs U-Shaped Sectionals.
Step 4 - Plan Comfort Clearances (Walkways, Tables, TV)
Great fit means more than “it fits the wall.” Keep these comfort zones:
- Walkways: Aim for 30–36" of clear path.
- Coffee table spacing: 14–18" from seat edge to table.
- Side tables: Top should be level with or slightly below arm height for reachability.
- Rug sizing: Ideally, front legs of all seats rest on the rug; leave ~8–18" of floor around rug edges.
- Viewing distance: As a rule of thumb, ~1.5× to 2.5× your TV diagonal (varies by resolution/preferences).
- Recliners/chaise: Ensure enough forward space for full extension without hitting tables or walls.
Step 5 - Check the Delivery Path (Doorways, Turns, Stairs)
Measure the full path—from truck to final room. The narrowest point determines success. Note:
- Exterior access: Gate widths, porch railings, storm doors.
- Main door: Clear width (door open), height, and depth of the frame.
- Hallways & turns: Narrowest width; check corners where you must rotate.
- Stairs: Width, ceiling height at turns, landing length and depth.
- Elevators: Door width/height and cab depth/height.
Rotation space matters: Sectional modules are often tall rectangles; even if the width fits, you may need diagonal clearance at corners. This is exactly where a calculator helps.
Use the Furniture Fit Calculator
Before you order, run your dimensions through our Furniture Fit Calculator. Enter the item’s measurements and your entryway constraints to get instant guidance for doorways, hallways, stairs, and elevator scenarios—so delivery day has no surprises.
- Test upright vs. tilted/rotated entry ideas.
- Validate tricky spots like stair turns and narrow landings.
- Save or share the results with your delivery team.
Quick Measurement Checklist
- ✅ Room width × length × ceiling height
- ✅ Doorway widths/heights (note swing and hinges)
- ✅ Hallway widths and the tightest turns
- ✅ Stairs width, landings, ceiling clearances
- ✅ Preferred layout (LHF/RHF) and overall sectional lengths
- ✅ Comfort clearances (walkway, coffee table, TV)
- ✅ Obstacles (vents, radiators, low sills, columns)
- ✅ Verified path using the Furniture Fit Calculator
Common Measuring Mistakes to Avoid
- Ignoring the delivery path: The front door or a single hallway turn is often the real bottleneck.
- Forgetting door swing/hinges: Hinges can remove 1–2" (2.5–5 cm) of usable width.
- Only checking wall length: Depth and chaise extension still need walking room.
- Not confirming orientation: Ordering LHF instead of RHF is a classic headache—double-check!
- Assuming modulars always fit: Modules help, but tall backs still need corner clearance.
FAQ
What measurements do I need before ordering a sectional?
Room width/length, door and hallway widths/heights, stair specs if applicable, and the sectional’s overall lengths, depth, and height. Don’t forget orientation (LHF/RHF).
How much walkway space should I leave around a sectional?
Plan for 30–36" where people pass frequently. Keep 14–18" between the coffee table and seat edge.
Will a modular sectional always fit more easily?
Usually, yes—smaller pieces navigate tight entries better. But check vertical clearances and corner rotations using the calculator.
How do I decide between L-shaped and U-shaped?
L-shaped sectionals suit corners and medium rooms; U-shaped maximize seating and conversation in larger rooms. See our comparison guide for layout pros/cons.